Class A Extinguishers will put out fires in ordinary combustibles such as wood and paper. The numerical rating refers to the amount of water the fire extinguisher holds and the amount of fire it is designed to extinguish.

Class B Extinguishers are used on fires involving flammable liquids like grease, gasoline, oil, etc. The numerical rating states the approximate number of square feet of a flammable liquid fire that can be extinguished.

Class C Extinguishers are for use on electrical fires. This class of fire extinguishers does not have a numerical rating. The presence of the letter “C” indicates that the extinguishing agent is non-conductive.

Class D Extinguishers are designed for flammable metals and are often built for a specific type of metal. These extinguishers generally have no rating nor are they given a multi-purpose rating for use on other types of fires.

Many extinguishers available today can be used on different types of fires and will be labeled with more than one designator.

Types of Fire Extinguishers

Dry Chemical extinguishers are usually rated for multiple purpose use. They contain an extinguishing agent and use a compressed, non-flammable gas as a propellant.

Halon extinguishers contain a gas that interrupts the chemical reaction that takes place when a fire is burning. These types of extinguishers are often used to protect electrical equipment because they leave no residue. The initial application of Halon should be made at the base of the fire.

Selecting the Tiles

Most ceiling tiles are made of fiberboard. Standard tiles measure 12" by 12", although tiles are also made in 12" by 24" and other sizes. Acoustical tiles are made from the same type of fiber with an additional manufacturing process to help absorb sound in a room. A well designed acoustical tile absorbs up to 70 percent of excess noise.

Ask the supplier to help estimate the materials you need for installation. Most manufacturers provide charts to determine the number of tiles, the amount of furring, and the gallons of adhesive needed (if adhesive is used) based on the room size. Tiles are typically packed as follows: 12" by 12" ceiling tiles in cartons of 40, 12" by 24" are packed 20 to a carton.

Ceiling Tile Installation Methods

The most common methods of ceiling tile application are adhesives, stapled or nailed to wood furring strips, or a metal grid suspended from the overhead floor joists. For ceilings made of plaster, sheetrock, or other materials that provides a smooth, continuous backing, use adhesives to apply the ceiling tiles. If the ceiling has cracked plaster or other defects, apply furring strips and nail or staple the tiles to the furring strips.

Basic Rules

• All cut tiles should be used for the edges of the room where the ceiling meets the walls.

• Cut tiles at opposite ends of the room should be the same size.

• If at all possible, cut tiles should not be less than half a tile wide.

Determine the Size of Border Tiles

Measure the distance from wall to wall on the longer side of the room. If the length measures exact feet, you will not need to cut border tiles for that direction. If the distance does not come out in exact feet, add 12 to the number of inches remaining and divide by two. This gives you the width of your border tiles. For example, if the room is 10′ 6" long, add 12 to 6 (18) and divide 18 by 2. The result of 9" is the width of the border tiles for each end of the run. Do the same thing for the shorter side of the room. Confused? Here is the result of the calculations:

• 10′ 6" = 126 total inches of the run (10′ x 12" to the foot = 120") + 6" = 126"

• 6" + 12" = 18" (to make sure each end tile is at least 1/2 tile wide)

• 18" / 2 = 9"

• 9" on start of run + 9" on end of run = 18", so 126" (total length of the run) - 18" = 108"

• 108" / 12" (size of standard ceiling tile) = 9 tiles in middle of the run

• 9 tiles x 12" = 108" + 9" start of run + 9" end of run = 126"

• 126" / 12" = 10′ 6"

Installing Tiles with Adhesive

Use adhesive for applying tiles only if the ceiling is flat and even, with no high or low spots. A wavy surface will be magnified by the application of ceiling tiles. If you can’t get the ceiling in acceptable condition, use the furring strip method.

Surface preparation is important when using adhesives. Paint should be checked carefully to be sure it has a good bond and is compatible with the adhesive to be used. You don’t want to spend a lot of time installing tiles only to have them start falling down due to an adverse reaction between paint and adhesive.

Use the above formula to calculate width of borders on each end of the runs. Snap a chalk line along each side of the room that equals the width of the border tile from the wall. Use these lines to align the first row of border tiles along both the short and long sides of the room.

Cut your first border tile to size. This tile fits into the corner, so you must take into consideration the dimensions of border tiles on both the short and long sides of the room. For example, if your border tiles on the long side of the room are to be 10" and on the short side of the room only 9", the corner tile should be cut to measure 10" by 9". This allows all other border tiles in the room to line up properly with your full sized tiles.

Cut border tiles on a flat surface with the finished side up. Use a very sharp knife or utility knife and a clean straightedge. Watch your hands and fingers! Don’t cut directly towards your body because you can injure yourself if the knife slips.

Place the adhesive in each corner of the tile about an inch from the edge and in the middle of the tile. Place the border tile in position in the corner and make sure the wide stapling edge lines up with the chalk marks on both sides. The flange must be exposed so the tongue of the next tile can slide into the tile you’ve just placed.

It may be necessary to use a staple in each flange to hold the tile in position while the adhesive dries. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. Place several border tiles in position along each edge, then fill in the ceiling with full-sized tiles. Once you’ve installed all the full-sized tiles, you must measure and fit each border tile carefully on the opposite end of the run. Install a border molding to complete the run.

Installing Tiles Using Furring Strips

For a ceiling with exposed joists or surface defects too difficult to correct, nail furring strips to the ceiling before applying the tiles. These can be purchased from building supply centers and/or the same place where you buy your ceiling tiles. If the ceiling has joists hidden by an existing ceiling, these joists must be located and marked before the furring strips are applied. You can locate joists by driving a nail into the ceiling or by using a stud finder.

Joists are usually installed on 16" or 24" centers. After you locate the first one, measure across 16" and try again. If you miss at 16", try 24". Locate and mark all joists with a chalk line so you can attach the furring strips. Nail the strips across the joists at right angles to the joists.

Attach the first furring strip to the ceiling immediately against the wall that runs at right angles to the ceiling joists. Position the second furring strip so that the distance between the center

Don't count on anybody to do their job right. Just because an architect has a nice office and a good reputation doesn't mean the drawings will be done properly. The contractor that comes highly recommended might end up ripping you off with shoddy work. You absolutely must stay on top of the entire home building project to prevent losing money or getting a house that you hate. It's amazing how many contractors can't even read a simple set of blueprints. And don't let them talk you into changing something unless you really want the change. In some cases, the contractor is simply trying to swap cheaper materials to increase the profit margin.

Get a firm estimate, put everything in a contract, and hold everybody to it. Don't allow excessive monetary draws. While it's customary to have an initial draw, make sure it's for actual building expenses and not some kind of "fee" to get work started. Every dime should go towards actually building the house. While material costs vary, and there is usually a clause in the contract that allows for this, don't fall for the "I'm not making any money on this project" scam three quarters of the way through. Unless you have made changes to the original plan that increase the cost, or supplies go up more than anticipated, don't pay any more than stated in the contract. Pay a dollar for a dollar, nothing more, nothing less. If you have been keeping the draws under control you can fire the contractor if necessary and find someone else. Remember that it's your house, your money, and you are the boss.

Make sure the last draw is large enough to be painful for the contractor if withheld. And don't pay it out until every last detail of the project has been completed to your total satisfaction. If you pay the last draw before your home is finished, you will probably never see the contractor again. He will move on to the next project and ignore your phone calls.

Plan everything about your home building project in excruciating detail up front. Leave nothing out. Go over the plans many times before even starting your project. Have a trusted friend help with this. Two sets of eyes always see better. Contractors love a home builder who isn't sure what he wants, and decides to fill in the details as the house is being built. Why? Because once the contractor has the job, he can charge you anything for changes that weren't in the contract. If you decide to make a change after work commences, go over it with the contractor and get a firm price quote. Then put it in writing before work on the change begins.

Before starting, review the features of the area. What color are the walls, countertop, floor and appliances? Are the cabinets light or dark? What type of lighting is present, and what does it illuminate? What color and type are the fixtures? If your cabinets are dark, you may want to lighten-up the area. If you have under-cabinet lighting, the backsplash could probably be done in a medium color tone so it doesn’t contrast with the cabinetry.

Surface Preparation

Tile can be installed over most substrates if they are clean, smooth and dry. Check with your supplier to see if the tile you have chosen requires a specific underlayment. Repair and level any damaged or uneven areas. Make certain your countertop is level. If not, insert shims between the lower cabinets and the countertop. Turn off power and water to any outlets within or near your work space. Be careful! Electric wires and plumbing run between studs in walls. Don’t make the mistake of cutting into either while they are still live.

Layout and Cutting

Dry fit your tiles and carefully mark with a pencil or felt-tip pen. Make straight or diagonal cuts with a tile cutter and curved cuts with a nipper. For best results on curved cuts, only chip small pieces at a time. Smooth sharp edges with a carborundum stone.

Applying Adhesive and Setting Tiles

Select the right adhesive for the substrate. If in doubt, ask the supplier for the correct type. Follow all instructions and precautions on the adhesive or mortar package. Mix only enough to be used within 30 minutes. Using the type of trowel recommended on the adhesive package, spread a 1/4″ coat on the surface using the flat side of the trowel. Next, hold the trowel at a 45 degree angle and use the notched side to comb adhesive into ridges. Remove excess adhesive. Don’t spread a larger area than can be set in 15 minutes. Place tiles with a slight twisting motion. Insert tile spacers as each tile is set. Excess adhesive can be removed from joints with a utility knife.

Grouting Joints

Level Tub or Shower Pan - If the tub is level to within 1/8″, measure and mark your horizontal line from the high point of the tub. The 1/8″ difference (if there is a difference) can be hidden with grout. Measure up from the lip of the tub, the width of a tile plus 1/8″. Make a line using a level and a straight edge, along the back wall and the two end walls.

Out of Level Tub or Shower Pan - If the tub is not level to 1/8″, mark your horizontal line from the low point. Determine a level line just like for a level tub and run a batten along the bottom of the line. It is usually best to nail a straight wooden batten so that the top of the batten is set to the horizontal line. This provides a level surface for the tile. After all the tile is laid, remove the batten and install the bottom row. You will have to cut the bottom row of tiles to fit along the uneven top edge of the tub or pan.

Vertical Working Lines

Setup the tiles so each edge (border) tile is the same width on each end, and more than half a tile wide. To do this, first locate the mid-point on the back wall and mark it on the horizontal line. Then place a row of loose tiles along the back of the tub, making sure that a joint matches up with the center mark. The distance left at each end gives you the dimension of your border tiles. If the end tiles turn out to be larger than half a tile, make the vertical center line all the way up the wall using a level and straight edge.

If the end tiles are less than half the width of a tile, move the center line exactly one half the width of a tile to the left or right. By making this adjustment you’ll avoid having very narrow tiles on the ends.

The vertical for the side walls are usually done after the back wall has been tiled. Just position the vertical working lines to minimize or eliminate the number of tiles to be cut and locate any cut tiles in the corner.

Determine where you are going to put the soap dish or other accessories, and mark the locations. These will be installed last. If your soap dish fits into the wall, cut the hole before you spread adhesive, and position it to minimize or even eliminate the need to cut any tiles that will go around it.

Apply Adhesive

Make sure the adhesive is waterproof. Don’t make the mistake of using non-waterproof adhesive or your tiles will loosen and fall off after repeated exposure to moisture. Before you apply the adhesive, carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions for drying time so you don’t spread any more than you can work with before it sets.

Cracks in Sidewalks

Enlarge the crack along its entire length with a cold chisel and hammer. Use gloves and eye protection! Make the crack wider at the bottom than at the top, a process known as undercutting. It helps to bond the new concrete with the older concrete. After the crack has been thoroughly undercut, remove all loose material and brush the area with a wire brush.

The new concrete patch will hold better if a concrete adhesive is used first. This will both assist with bonding and prevent old concrete from absorbing moisture from the newly installed patch. Brush the adhesive into the undercut area and allow it to dry until it becomes tacky.

Use one part Portland cement to 2 1/2 parts of fine, clean sand. Heavier concrete patch jobs call for one part of Portland cement to two parts of sand and three parts of gravel. Building supply centers sell pre-mixed concrete for this type of job. All you add is water and it makes things much easier than buying and mixing the ingredients yourself.

Tamp the concrete patch mix tightly into the undercut area. Be sure to fill all areas completely. When the mixture begins to set, smooth it down with trowel or float. Use a metal trowel for a smooth finish. For a rough surface, use a wood float.

Allow the patch to dry for about two hours, then cover the area completely with plastic sheeting or boards. This will prevent the patch from drying too fast, which would weaken the repair. Keep the area covered for about five days. Lift the cover once each day and lightly dampen the repair.

Cracks in Driveways

Concrete driveway repair is basically the same procedure as sidewalk repair. However, the repaired area must withstand much greater pressure. Driveways also tend to be thicker than sidewalks so it will take longer to prepare the area.

Thoroughly clean and undercut the crack, to a greater depth and considerably wider than when repairing a sidewalk. This will take a lot of time on thick driveways. Don’t forget your gloves and eye protection!

Brush concrete adhesive into the undercut area and allow it to dry until it becomes tacky. This is a must on driveway repairs. You need as much strength as possible to support the heavy loads.

Use a gravel mix, rather than a sand mix, for repairing concrete driveways. This mix is one part Portland cement, two parts sand and three parts gravel. Again, there are ready-mix products available that make this part of the task much easier.

The list of synthetic fibers can be confusing because manufacturers often call them by proprietary names. Still, all synthetics fall into four generic categories: nylon, olefin, acrylic, and polyester.

Nylon - The majority of carpet fibers are made of nylon. Nylon fibers are resilient, survive the weight of furniture, and hold up well in heavily trafficked areas. Nylon is available in a vast array of colors, and solution-dyed types are colorfast. Nylon carpets can be found in a wide variety of wear ratings and price ranges. This is generally the best choice of carpet fiber for the home.

Olefin - Also known as polypropylene, olefin is another popular choice for carpet. It is easy to clean, strong, and resists stains and wear. Olefin is used mostly in Berbers and commercial carpets. Color is added before the material is turned into fiber, making it colorfast. Olefin carpet is comparable in price to nylon.

Acrylic - These fibers are blended with other types such as wool because they approximate the look and feel of natural wool but are less expensive. Acrylic fibers are resistant to moisture, mildew, and fading.

Polyester - Polyester fibers are known for their soft, cushiony feel. They have plenty of body, resist wear, and offer strong color retention. But polyester is not as durable as nylon and olefin. If you have animals in your home, go with nylon instead of polyester. Many polyester carpets are made from recycled PET (polyester) from plastic soda bottles and containers. They are cheaper than the other fiber types.

A carpet's pile can be cut, looped, or both cut and looped. Cut-pile carpets have loops trimmed off so that yarn ends poke upward, creating a luxurious look and feel. This type of carpet is very popular.

Loop pile carpet has complete yarn loops that stand upright. Loops tend to wear better than cut-pile carpets because the yarn tips are not exposed. For a smooth surface, often preferred in commercial installations, you can get a low-level loop. For striking patterns or a sculptured look, you can buy a multi-level loop. High-level loops, such as Berbers, create a nubby texture. In fact, most loop piles are now called Berbers.

New Cedar Siding

New cedar siding should be protected from the weather at all times. Don’t leave the siding exposed to the elements - get the finish on as soon as possible. It is usually not necessary to perform extensive surface preparation as long as the siding has not weathered for more than two weeks and is clean and dry. Any contamination, such as dirt, oil, and other foreign substances, must be removed.

For smooth, flat-grained cedar, some surface preparation may be needed. The surface should be lightly scuffed with 50-60 grit sandpaper. This will greatly increase the performance of the finish and will not detract from a smooth look. Surface preparation is not necessary for textured cedar.

Weathered Cedar Siding

Weathered siding that has been exposed to the elements for longer than 2 weeks may have a degraded surface that is unsuitable for staining or painting. Prepare the surface by sanding, brushing, and washing before applying the finish.

Paint Finishes for Cedar Siding

Paint must be removed if the old surface is severely peeled, blistered, or if checking (small cracks) are present. Paint removal is also necessary if a penetrating stain or water-repellent finish is to be applied.

Changing from a painted surface to a wood stain can be quite difficult. Paint usually penetrates the surface by a slight amount, and this can prevent the absorption of stain. The end result will look blotchy and in some cases, the stain will not penetrate at all. If the surface is currently painted, it’s best to stay with paint instead of trying to switch to stain.

Finishes can be removed by sanding, wet sandblasting, pressurized water spray, electrically heated paint removers and chemicals. Although quick and easy, sandblasting and pressurized water spray are not recommended unless extreme care is taken to avoid damage to the wood’s surface. The high pressure can easily remove sections of the surface and ruin the siding. If the old paint is lead-based, it can be quite hazardous to remove and special procedures must be taken. In this case, it is best to hire a contractor that specializes in lead paint removal to do the job.

Copper must be cleaned to remove surface contamination prior to soldering. There are a number of ways to do this. You can use fine grit sandpaper, emory cloth, or a tool designed for the purpose. Whatever method you choose, the mating surfaces of the parts to be connected must be bright and shiny. Otherwise, solder will not bond and you will end up with a leaking connection.

Here are the steps to a successful sweat solder job:

• Measure, cut, and dry-fit all parts. Be sure you have cut pipes to the correct length. When fitted together, about 3/8 additional inch will be needed on each side of an assembled joint to account for the connector.

• Clean the mating surfaces of parts to be joined - outside surface of pipe, inside surface of connector. Use one of the cleaning methods mentioned earlier, and don’t touch the parts with your fingers after cleaning. This step must be done properly. Any contamination on the surfaces to be joined will prevent the solder from bonding.

• Apply a light coating of flux to the outside mating surfaces of pipes and inside of connectors. Be sure to get an even film all the way around. Use a small flux brush for this task. The purpose of the flux is to remove any unseen surface oxidation, etch the copper, and guard against oxidation when the parts are heated.

• Assemble the parts to be joined. Support the pieces on something that will not burn or be damaged by heat. If working in an enclosed space, protect surrounding areas with a flame blocking material and keep a fire extinguisher handy. Be mindful of items that can be damaged or destroyed during the heating process. This includes you! Don’t burn yourself on the hot parts, and be sure to protect your eyes. If working overhead, do not position yourself directly below the parts to be joined.

• Pull about 12 inches of solder from the roll. Begin soldering by applying heat - first to the outside of the connector where the pipe is inserted, then back and forth across connector and pipe. Keep heating until the flux begins to bubble and smoke slightly. Don’t overheat or the solder will not bond.

• Touch the tip of the solder to the point where the pipe enters the connector. If at the correct temperature, the solder will instantly melt and flow into the joint. Maintain contact just long enough for the solder to appear all around the fitting. Don’t use too much because the excess will flow inside the joint and possibly form a blockage.

• Allow the soldered joint to cool by itself. Don’t move it around while cooling, and don’t use water or anything else in an attempt to speed-up the cooling process. If the solder is cooled too fast, it will become brittle and probably fail at some point.

If your grout is still stained, the next thing to try would be commercial tile and grout cleaners. These are available where home cleaning products are sold. Start with a mild cleaner instead of jumping right to a harsh one. To get the best result from a commercial cleaner, spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes before scrubbing. Follow the directions on the label to clean effectively and prevent discoloration.

Tips for Grout Cleaning

• Clean the grout first with water and allow to dry. This will remove any loose surface debris and small stains that have not set.

• Never use bleach on colored grout because the color will be damaged.

• Use a stiff nylon brush for scrubbing. Avoid using metal bristles, as they will damage the grout.

• Make sure the room you're working in is well ventilated and protect your hands and eyes.

• Test your grout cleaner on a small, inconspicuous area first to make sure it won't damage the grout.

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The initial application of paint or wood stain is absorbed into the substrate. Since stains contain low amounts of binder, the pigment remains near the surface, while the binder penetrates to a deeper level. On the other hand, paint has a high amount of binder, so the pigment forms a layer on the surface.

Wood stains range from very low viscosity to extremely thick. The thicker stains are designed primarily for exterior use. They penetrate better than paint, but usually do not hide surface defects as well. Exterior stains tend to be more flexible than paint and last longer. If you decide to use stain, be aware that most cannot be painted over. So once a surface has been stained, that’s most likely how it will have to stay for life.

Applying wood stain is not usually too difficult. Most are brushed or rubbed onto the wood. But surface conditions can complicate things. Highly porous and dry woods will typically absorb the stain quickly - so fast, that several coats may be needed to reach the desired color depth. The ends of cut wood will absorb very fast and can cause color differences between top and sides.

Fast-drying stains can be difficult to apply in hot weather or direct sunlight. Slow-dry varieties will take a very long time to dry in cold and/or damp conditions. Be sure to check the labels and match drying time and temperatures.

If you decide to go ahead with new cabinets, plan your job. Take measurements, make note of appliances and fixtures that have to be moved. Are you changing the color of the entire room? What about new light fixtures? How about the floor? This might be a good time to install new ceramic floor tile.

Get brochures from several cabinet companies and compare features, warranties, and prices. These will tell you what standard sizes are available, finishes, styles, materials, and hardware options. You may have to order a custom size to fit your area, but it is usually much less expensive to use standard sizes.

Draw a layout of your cabinet plans to give you an idea of how everything will line up and fit together. Make sure to include appliance and fixture locations. Check for interference with existing fixtures and lighting. If you are not going to install new light fixtures, make sure the new cabinets do not create shadows on the counter tops.

Look for interference with cabinet doors when they are opened. If you have a built-in range, will it fit the new opening? What about the exhaust fan - will you have to relocate the exhaust pipe and electrical connections?

Check the cabinet heights. If you are especially tall or short, see how far up you can comfortably reach. Many upper cabinets are designed to have an empty space between the tops and a standard height ceiling, while others will extend all the way to the ceiling.

If one of your cabinets will go over your sink or stove, make sure to allow space underneath it for working, and to attach lighting or a stove hood.

Be sure that upper cabinets line up with lower cabinets, and allow for windows and other features in the wall. Consider how you use your kitchen.

Items Needed for a Professional Job:

• Several carpenter's levels or laser levels of different lengths

• Lots of wood shims for leveling

• Clamps to hold cabinets together while you are arranging.

• Stud finder

• Counter top

• Two 2x4s or a cabinet jack

• Hinges

• Drawer pulls and door handles

• Any sinks, faucets, or other fixtures you will replace at the same time

• Paint and replacement flooring

• Caulk

• Basic power tools such as circular saw, drill, jigsaw, and screw gun

• Screws for hanging cabinets

Empty the old cabinets completely, then remove the doors and shelves before unscrewing the cabinets from the walls. Most shelves simply lift off of pegs, but some need to be unscrewed or pried off their supports.

Make certain that you support the upper cabinets as you remove the mounting screws. If the upper cabinets are a one-piece unit, you may have to separate them to avoid damaging adjacent walls.

After the old cabinets are removed, do any painting and floor work before installation begins. This would be a good time to do plumbing work if needed, assuming the pipes are exposed. See my post on how to sweat solder copper pipe if you need help with this.

Assemble the cabinets, but do not put the doors on yet. Take the time to make sure that the cabinets are assembled as securely, squarely and evenly as you can. Install upper cabinets first if possible, so that you will not need to work over the lower units.

Locate studs with a stud finder and use a level to draw a line down at their locations. Measure from the ceiling to mark the height of the cabinet brace or rail you will fasten to the studs.

Upper cabinets go first, starting at one end or in a corner. Be sure to arrange for a helper to lift and support them during installation. Follow all manufacturer instructions for installation.

Now mark the locations of your studs for the lower cabinets. Move them into place and check which cabinet sits highest. It's easier to shim the others up to this height than to shorten the tall one.

Make cutouts for plumbing, electrical, etc. Be sure these are accurate, and leave a little extra room so cabinets can be moved a little and not interfere with pipes or wiring.

Level the top of the cabinets by shimming under and behind them. Remember that you will install a counter top on the cabinets, so you want this reasonably level and all the joints flush. Also look at the appearance of the cabinet fronts and make sure those are even.

Substrate Preparation

The substrate must be clean and free of defects. Make sure all high spots are removed or you will find it nearly impossible to align adjacent tiles. If you need to patch rough areas, use a waterproof patching compound.

Snap chalk lines with a 90 degree intersection, preferably in the center of the room. Be patient. The more time you invest in laying out your area the better your project will go. Solve your layout questions before the adhesive is even mixed.

For best results, all tiling materials and adhesives should be at 50 to 70 degrees for 24 hours before and 48 hours after installation. Thoroughly mix the mortar with clean water to a toothpaste like consistency. It is best to only mix what can be used in 30 minutes. Stir mixture occasionally to maintain consistency. In the event the mix becomes stiff in the pail, discard and make a fresh batch.

First apply the mortar using the flat side of a trowel to promote substrate contact. Then, using a notch trowel at a 45 degree angle, spread the Mortar uniformly in a ridged pattern. Continue applying mortar in a straight pattern. Do not swirl the trowel, as this creates uneven heights in the mortar. Spread only an area that can be tiled in 10 to 15 minutes. Press tile into Mortar with a slight twisting motion. To prevent any voids or air pockets under the tile, use a small block of wood or rubber mallet and carefully tap the top of each tile to insure complete contact with mortar. Be very gentle here. You don’t want to crack or otherwise weaken the tile. Stay off the tile for 48 hours.

After the mortar has dried 48 hours, you are ready to grout. There are a variety of grout colors available to enhance the look of your tile floor. When working with grout it is mandatory to keep conditions as consistent as possible throughout the job - moisture, temperature, mixing and application. Mix the grout powder as per instructions. It is better to mix no more than can be used within 20 minutes. Mix each batch until all the pigments are dispersed and wet. The mixing time for each batch should be the same. Use a grout float to work the grout into the tile joints. Skim off the excess grout with the edge of the float and wipe the tile immediately with a damp sponge. It is better to grout small areas at a time so no grout will dry on the face of the tile. Remove all of the grout with the exception of a fine film. This film can be buffed off after setting using a clean, dry cloth.

Lumber intended for general construction is subdivided into stress graded, non-stress graded, and appearance categories. Stress graded and non-stress graded lumber are required to have consistent structural integrity. With appearance lumber, visual quality of the piece is most important and structural integrity is a secondary requirement.

The term "yard lumber" is often applied to the non-stress graded and appearance lumber that is sold by retail lumberyards. With such lumber, grading is done on the better side of a piece after drying and surfacing, and grades are designated by specifying the allowable size and number of defects (e.g., knotholes). This contrasts with hardwoods where most grades are determined from the poorer side of each piece on the basis of a specified number of clear cuttings. Another distinction is that hardwoods are typically graded prior to drying and surfacing.

Non-Stress Graded Lumber

With non-stress graded lumber, pieces are graded primarily for serviceability but appearance is also considered, especially in the higher grades. Imperfections such as knots and knotholes are allowed to become larger and more frequent as the grade drops. The primary product is boards that are less than 2 inches in nominal thickness and 2 inches or more in nominal width. Common nominal widths are 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 inches. Lengths are usually from 6 to 18 feet in increments of 2 feet. Three to five different Common grades may be applied to boards in this group depending upon the species and the lumber manufacturing association involved. In descending order of quality, the grades are:

No. 1 (Construction) - Moderate-sized tight knots. Paints well. Used for siding, cornice, shelving, paneling, some furniture.

No. 2 (Standard) - Knots larger and more numerous. Paints fair. Similar uses as No. 1.

No. 3 (Utility) - Splits and knotholes present. Does not take paint well. Used for crates, sheathing, sub-flooring, small furniture parts.

No. 4 (Economy) - Numerous splits and knotholes. Large waste areas. Does not take paint well. Used for sheathing, sub-flooring, concrete form work.

No. 5 (Economy) - Larger waste areas and coarser defects. Cannot be painted. Applications are similar to No. 5.

Stress Graded Lumber

This category includes most softwood lumber that is nominally 2 to 4 inches thick, referred to as "dimension" lumber. Examples include posts, beams, decking, studs, rafters, joists, timbers, and other structural lumber where working stresses will exist. Important qualities for stress-graded wood are strength, stiffness, and uniformity of size. Stress ratings may be determined either visually or mechanically to derive working values for properties such as bending stress and elasticity. A single set of grade names and descriptions are used throughout the United States although the allowable properties vary with wood species.

Appearance Lumber (Finish, Selects)

Appearance lumber is often non-stress graded but a separate category exists due to the greater importance placed on appearance. This group includes most softwood lumber that has been custom milled to a pattern or otherwise surfaced on all four sides (S4S). Examples are trim, siding, shingles, flooring, casing, base, stepping, and paneling. The highest grade of appearance lumber is Finish, which is subdivided into grades composed of letters or combinations of letters (B & BTR, C, D) or names such as Superior or Prime, depending on the grading agency. The next level down is Selects which has grade designations composed of numbers, letters, and names of ombinations of them (B & BTR, C Select, D Select).

To further complicate matters, some differences in grade designations exist for different wood species and products. Cedar and redwood, for example, have different grade designations than other softwoods due to the marked difference in color between heartwood and sapwood in these two woods. Typical redwood board grades are Clear All Heart, Clear, and Select. Other woods, such as western white or Idaho white pine (IWP) are graded as Supreme-IWP, Choice-IWP, and Quality-IWP. Some appearance lumber may also carry annotations such as FG (flat grain), VG (vertical grain), or MG (mixed grain).

Class A Extinguishers will put out fires in ordinary combustibles such as wood and paper. The numerical rating refers to the amount of water the fire extinguisher holds and the amount of fire it is designed to extinguish.

Class B Extinguishers are used on fires involving flammable liquids like grease, gasoline, oil, etc. The numerical rating states the approximate number of square feet of a flammable liquid fire that can be extinguished.

Class C Extinguishers are for use on electrical fires. This class of fire extinguishers does not have a numerical rating. The presence of the letter “C” indicates that the extinguishing agent is non-conductive.

Class D Extinguishers are designed for flammable metals and are often built for a specific type of metal. These extinguishers generally have no rating nor are they given a multi-purpose rating for use on other types of fires.

Many extinguishers available today can be used on different types of fires and will be labeled with more than one designator.

Types of Fire Extinguishers

Dry Chemical extinguishers are usually rated for multiple purpose use. They contain an extinguishing agent and use a compressed, non-flammable gas as a propellant.

Halon extinguishers contain a gas that interrupts the chemical reaction that takes place when a fire is burning. These types of extinguishers are often used to protect electrical equipment because they leave no residue. The initial application of Halon should be made at the base of the fire.

Cracks in Sidewalks

Enlarge the crack along its entire length with a cold chisel and hammer. Use gloves and eye protection! Make the crack wider at the bottom than at the top, a process known as undercutting. It helps to bond the new concrete with the older concrete. After the crack has been thoroughly undercut, remove all loose material and brush the area with a wire brush.

The new concrete patch will hold better if a concrete adhesive is used first. This will both assist with bonding and prevent old concrete from absorbing moisture from the newly installed patch. Brush the adhesive into the undercut area and allow it to dry until it becomes tacky.

Use one part Portland cement to 2 1/2 parts of fine, clean sand. Heavier concrete patch jobs call for one part of Portland cement to two parts of sand and three parts of gravel. Building supply centers sell pre-mixed concrete for this type of job. All you add is water and it makes things much easier than buying and mixing the ingredients yourself.

Tamp the concrete patch mix tightly into the undercut area. Be sure to fill all areas completely. When the mixture begins to set, smooth it down with trowel or float. Use a metal trowel for a smooth finish. For a rough surface, use a wood float.

Allow the patch to dry for about two hours, then cover the area completely with plastic sheeting or boards. This will prevent the patch from drying too fast, which would weaken the repair. Keep the area covered for about five days. Lift the cover once each day and lightly dampen the repair.

Cracks in Driveways

Concrete driveway repair is basically the same procedure as sidewalk repair. However, the repaired area must withstand much greater pressure. Driveways also tend to be thicker than sidewalks so it will take longer to prepare the area.

Thoroughly clean and undercut the crack, to a greater depth and considerably wider than when repairing a sidewalk. This will take a lot of time on thick driveways. Don’t forget your gloves and eye protection!

Brush concrete adhesive into the undercut area and allow it to dry until it becomes tacky. This is a must on driveway repairs. You need as much strength as possible to support the heavy loads.

Use a gravel mix, rather than a sand mix, for repairing concrete driveways. This mix is one part Portland cement, two parts sand and three parts gravel. Again, there are ready-mix products available that make this part of the task much easier.

Don't count on anybody to do their job right. Just because an architect has a nice office and a good reputation doesn't mean the drawings will be done properly. The contractor that comes highly recommended might end up ripping you off with shoddy work. You absolutely must stay on top of the entire home building project to prevent losing money or getting a house that you hate. It's amazing how many contractors can't even read a simple set of blueprints. And don't let them talk you into changing something unless you really want the change. In some cases, the contractor is simply trying to swap cheaper materials to increase the profit margin.

Get a firm estimate, put everything in a contract, and hold everybody to it. Don't allow excessive monetary draws. While it's customary to have an initial draw, make sure it's for actual building expenses and not some kind of "fee" to get work started. Every dime should go towards actually building the house. While material costs vary, and there is usually a clause in the contract that allows for this, don't fall for the "I'm not making any money on this project" scam three quarters of the way through. Unless you have made changes to the original plan that increase the cost, or supplies go up more than anticipated, don't pay any more than stated in the contract. Pay a dollar for a dollar, nothing more, nothing less. If you have been keeping the draws under control you can fire the contractor if necessary and find someone else. Remember that it's your house, your money, and you are the boss.

Make sure the last draw is large enough to be painful for the contractor if withheld. And don't pay it out until every last detail of the project has been completed to your total satisfaction. If you pay the last draw before your home is finished, you will probably never see the contractor again. He will move on to the next project and ignore your phone calls.

Plan everything about your home building project in excruciating detail up front. Leave nothing out. Go over the plans many times before even starting your project. Have a trusted friend help with this. Two sets of eyes always see better. Contractors love a home builder who isn't sure what he wants, and decides to fill in the details as the house is being built. Why? Because once the contractor has the job, he can charge you anything for changes that weren't in the contract. If you decide to make a change after work commences, go over it with the contractor and get a firm price quote. Then put it in writing before work on the change begins.

Before starting, review the features of the area. What color are the walls, countertop, floor and appliances? Are the cabinets light or dark? What type of lighting is present, and what does it illuminate? What color and type are the fixtures? If your cabinets are dark, you may want to lighten-up the area. If you have under-cabinet lighting, the backsplash could probably be done in a medium color tone so it doesn’t contrast with the cabinetry.

Surface Preparation

Tile can be installed over most substrates if they are clean, smooth and dry. Check with your supplier to see if the tile you have chosen requires a specific underlayment. Repair and level any damaged or uneven areas. Make certain your countertop is level. If not, insert shims between the lower cabinets and the countertop. Turn off power and water to any outlets within or near your work space. Be careful! Electric wires and plumbing run between studs in walls. Don’t make the mistake of cutting into either while they are still live.

Layout and Cutting

Dry fit your tiles and carefully mark with a pencil or felt-tip pen. Make straight or diagonal cuts with a tile cutter and curved cuts with a nipper. For best results on curved cuts, only chip small pieces at a time. Smooth sharp edges with a carborundum stone.

Applying Adhesive and Setting Tiles

Select the right adhesive for the substrate. If in doubt, ask the supplier for the correct type. Follow all instructions and precautions on the adhesive or mortar package. Mix only enough to be used within 30 minutes. Using the type of trowel recommended on the adhesive package, spread a 1/4″ coat on the surface using the flat side of the trowel. Next, hold the trowel at a 45 degree angle and use the notched side to comb adhesive into ridges. Remove excess adhesive. Don’t spread a larger area than can be set in 15 minutes. Place tiles with a slight twisting motion. Insert tile spacers as each tile is set. Excess adhesive can be removed from joints with a utility knife.

Grouting Joints

Level Tub or Shower Pan - If the tub is level to within 1/8″, measure and mark your horizontal line from the high point of the tub. The 1/8″ difference (if there is a difference) can be hidden with grout. Measure up from the lip of the tub, the width of a tile plus 1/8″. Make a line using a level and a straight edge, along the back wall and the two end walls.

Out of Level Tub or Shower Pan - If the tub is not level to 1/8″, mark your horizontal line from the low point. Determine a level line just like for a level tub and run a batten along the bottom of the line. It is usually best to nail a straight wooden batten so that the top of the batten is set to the horizontal line. This provides a level surface for the tile. After all the tile is laid, remove the batten and install the bottom row. You will have to cut the bottom row of tiles to fit along the uneven top edge of the tub or pan.

Vertical Working Lines

Setup the tiles so each edge (border) tile is the same width on each end, and more than half a tile wide. To do this, first locate the mid-point on the back wall and mark it on the horizontal line. Then place a row of loose tiles along the back of the tub, making sure that a joint matches up with the center mark. The distance left at each end gives you the dimension of your border tiles. If the end tiles turn out to be larger than half a tile, make the vertical center line all the way up the wall using a level and straight edge.

If the end tiles are less than half the width of a tile, move the center line exactly one half the width of a tile to the left or right. By making this adjustment you’ll avoid having very narrow tiles on the ends.

The vertical for the side walls are usually done after the back wall has been tiled. Just position the vertical working lines to minimize or eliminate the number of tiles to be cut and locate any cut tiles in the corner.

Determine where you are going to put the soap dish or other accessories, and mark the locations. These will be installed last. If your soap dish fits into the wall, cut the hole before you spread adhesive, and position it to minimize or even eliminate the need to cut any tiles that will go around it.

Apply Adhesive

Make sure the adhesive is waterproof. Don’t make the mistake of using non-waterproof adhesive or your tiles will loosen and fall off after repeated exposure to moisture. Before you apply the adhesive, carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions for drying time so you don’t spread any more than you can work with before it sets.

Cracks in Sidewalks

Enlarge the crack along its entire length with a cold chisel and hammer. Use gloves and eye protection! Make the crack wider at the bottom than at the top, a process known as undercutting. It helps to bond the new concrete with the older concrete. After the crack has been thoroughly undercut, remove all loose material and brush the area with a wire brush.

The new concrete patch will hold better if a concrete adhesive is used first. This will both assist with bonding and prevent old concrete from absorbing moisture from the newly installed patch. Brush the adhesive into the undercut area and allow it to dry until it becomes tacky.

Use one part Portland cement to 2 1/2 parts of fine, clean sand. Heavier concrete patch jobs call for one part of Portland cement to two parts of sand and three parts of gravel. Building supply centers sell pre-mixed concrete for this type of job. All you add is water and it makes things much easier than buying and mixing the ingredients yourself.

Tamp the concrete patch mix tightly into the undercut area. Be sure to fill all areas completely. When the mixture begins to set, smooth it down with trowel or float. Use a metal trowel for a smooth finish. For a rough surface, use a wood float.

Allow the patch to dry for about two hours, then cover the area completely with plastic sheeting or boards. This will prevent the patch from drying too fast, which would weaken the repair. Keep the area covered for about five days. Lift the cover once each day and lightly dampen the repair.

Cracks in Driveways

Concrete driveway repair is basically the same procedure as sidewalk repair. However, the repaired area must withstand much greater pressure. Driveways also tend to be thicker than sidewalks so it will take longer to prepare the area.

Thoroughly clean and undercut the crack, to a greater depth and considerably wider than when repairing a sidewalk. This will take a lot of time on thick driveways. Don’t forget your gloves and eye protection!

Brush concrete adhesive into the undercut area and allow it to dry until it becomes tacky. This is a must on driveway repairs. You need as much strength as possible to support the heavy loads.

Use a gravel mix, rather than a sand mix, for repairing concrete driveways. This mix is one part Portland cement, two parts sand and three parts gravel. Again, there are ready-mix products available that make this part of the task much easier.

The list of synthetic fibers can be confusing because manufacturers often call them by proprietary names. Still, all synthetics fall into four generic categories: nylon, olefin, acrylic, and polyester.

Nylon - The majority of carpet fibers are made of nylon. Nylon fibers are resilient, survive the weight of furniture, and hold up well in heavily trafficked areas. Nylon is available in a vast array of colors, and solution-dyed types are colorfast. Nylon carpets can be found in a wide variety of wear ratings and price ranges. This is generally the best choice of carpet fiber for the home.

Olefin - Also known as polypropylene, olefin is another popular choice for carpet. It is easy to clean, strong, and resists stains and wear. Olefin is used mostly in Berbers and commercial carpets. Color is added before the material is turned into fiber, making it colorfast. Olefin carpet is comparable in price to nylon.

Acrylic - These fibers are blended with other types such as wool because they approximate the look and feel of natural wool but are less expensive. Acrylic fibers are resistant to moisture, mildew, and fading.

Polyester - Polyester fibers are known for their soft, cushiony feel. They have plenty of body, resist wear, and offer strong color retention. But polyester is not as durable as nylon and olefin. If you have animals in your home, go with nylon instead of polyester. Many polyester carpets are made from recycled PET (polyester) from plastic soda bottles and containers. They are cheaper than the other fiber types.

A carpet's pile can be cut, looped, or both cut and looped. Cut-pile carpets have loops trimmed off so that yarn ends poke upward, creating a luxurious look and feel. This type of carpet is very popular.

Loop pile carpet has complete yarn loops that stand upright. Loops tend to wear better than cut-pile carpets because the yarn tips are not exposed. For a smooth surface, often preferred in commercial installations, you can get a low-level loop. For striking patterns or a sculptured look, you can buy a multi-level loop. High-level loops, such as Berbers, create a nubby texture. In fact, most loop piles are now called Berbers.

New Cedar Siding

New cedar siding should be protected from the weather at all times. Don’t leave the siding exposed to the elements - get the finish on as soon as possible. It is usually not necessary to perform extensive surface preparation as long as the siding has not weathered for more than two weeks and is clean and dry. Any contamination, such as dirt, oil, and other foreign substances, must be removed.

For smooth, flat-grained cedar, some surface preparation may be needed. The surface should be lightly scuffed with 50-60 grit sandpaper. This will greatly increase the performance of the finish and will not detract from a smooth look. Surface preparation is not necessary for textured cedar.

Weathered Cedar Siding

Weathered siding that has been exposed to the elements for longer than 2 weeks may have a degraded surface that is unsuitable for staining or painting. Prepare the surface by sanding, brushing, and washing before applying the finish.

Paint Finishes for Cedar Siding

Paint must be removed if the old surface is severely peeled, blistered, or if checking (small cracks) are present. Paint removal is also necessary if a penetrating stain or water-repellent finish is to be applied.

Changing from a painted surface to a wood stain can be quite difficult. Paint usually penetrates the surface by a slight amount, and this can prevent the absorption of stain. The end result will look blotchy and in some cases, the stain will not penetrate at all. If the surface is currently painted, it’s best to stay with paint instead of trying to switch to stain.

Finishes can be removed by sanding, wet sandblasting, pressurized water spray, electrically heated paint removers and chemicals. Although quick and easy, sandblasting and pressurized water spray are not recommended unless extreme care is taken to avoid damage to the wood’s surface. The high pressure can easily remove sections of the surface and ruin the siding. If the old paint is lead-based, it can be quite hazardous to remove and special procedures must be taken. In this case, it is best to hire a contractor that specializes in lead paint removal to do the job.

Copper must be cleaned to remove surface contamination prior to soldering. There are a number of ways to do this. You can use fine grit sandpaper, emory cloth, or a tool designed for the purpose. Whatever method you choose, the mating surfaces of the parts to be connected must be bright and shiny. Otherwise, solder will not bond and you will end up with a leaking connection.

Here are the steps to a successful sweat solder job:

• Measure, cut, and dry-fit all parts. Be sure you have cut pipes to the correct length. When fitted together, about 3/8 additional inch will be needed on each side of an assembled joint to account for the connector.

• Clean the mating surfaces of parts to be joined - outside surface of pipe, inside surface of connector. Use one of the cleaning methods mentioned earlier, and don’t touch the parts with your fingers after cleaning. This step must be done properly. Any contamination on the surfaces to be joined will prevent the solder from bonding.

• Apply a light coating of flux to the outside mating surfaces of pipes and inside of connectors. Be sure to get an even film all the way around. Use a small flux brush for this task. The purpose of the flux is to remove any unseen surface oxidation, etch the copper, and guard against oxidation when the parts are heated.

• Assemble the parts to be joined. Support the pieces on something that will not burn or be damaged by heat. If working in an enclosed space, protect surrounding areas with a flame blocking material and keep a fire extinguisher handy. Be mindful of items that can be damaged or destroyed during the heating process. This includes you! Don’t burn yourself on the hot parts, and be sure to protect your eyes. If working overhead, do not position yourself directly below the parts to be joined.

• Pull about 12 inches of solder from the roll. Begin soldering by applying heat - first to the outside of the connector where the pipe is inserted, then back and forth across connector and pipe. Keep heating until the flux begins to bubble and smoke slightly. Don’t overheat or the solder will not bond.

• Touch the tip of the solder to the point where the pipe enters the connector. If at the correct temperature, the solder will instantly melt and flow into the joint. Maintain contact just long enough for the solder to appear all around the fitting. Don’t use too much because the excess will flow inside the joint and possibly form a blockage.

• Allow the soldered joint to cool by itself. Don’t move it around while cooling, and don’t use water or anything else in an attempt to speed-up the cooling process. If the solder is cooled too fast, it will become brittle and probably fail at some point.

If your grout is still stained, the next thing to try would be commercial tile and grout cleaners. These are available where home cleaning products are sold. Start with a mild cleaner instead of jumping right to a harsh one. To get the best result from a commercial cleaner, spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes before scrubbing. Follow the directions on the label to clean effectively and prevent discoloration.

Tips for Grout Cleaning

• Clean the grout first with water and allow to dry. This will remove any loose surface debris and small stains that have not set.

• Never use bleach on colored grout because the color will be damaged.

• Use a stiff nylon brush for scrubbing. Avoid using metal bristles, as they will damage the grout.

• Make sure the room you're working in is well ventilated and protect your hands and eyes.

• Test your grout cleaner on a small, inconspicuous area first to make sure it won't damage the grout.

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The initial application of paint or wood stain is absorbed into the substrate. Since stains contain low amounts of binder, the pigment remains near the surface, while the binder penetrates to a deeper level. On the other hand, paint has a high amount of binder, so the pigment forms a layer on the surface.

Wood stains range from very low viscosity to extremely thick. The thicker stains are designed primarily for exterior use. They penetrate better than paint, but usually do not hide surface defects as well. Exterior stains tend to be more flexible than paint and last longer. If you decide to use stain, be aware that most cannot be painted over. So once a surface has been stained, that’s most likely how it will have to stay for life.

Applying wood stain is not usually too difficult. Most are brushed or rubbed onto the wood. But surface conditions can complicate things. Highly porous and dry woods will typically absorb the stain quickly - so fast, that several coats may be needed to reach the desired color depth. The ends of cut wood will absorb very fast and can cause color differences between top and sides.

Fast-drying stains can be difficult to apply in hot weather or direct sunlight. Slow-dry varieties will take a very long time to dry in cold and/or damp conditions. Be sure to check the labels and match drying time and temperatures.

If you decide to go ahead with new cabinets, plan your job. Take measurements, make note of appliances and fixtures that have to be moved. Are you changing the color of the entire room? What about new light fixtures? How about the floor? This might be a good time to install new ceramic floor tile.

Get brochures from several cabinet companies and compare features, warranties, and prices. These will tell you what standard sizes are available, finishes, styles, materials, and hardware options. You may have to order a custom size to fit your area, but it is usually much less expensive to use standard sizes.

Draw a layout of your cabinet plans to give you an idea of how everything will line up and fit together. Make sure to include appliance and fixture locations. Check for interference with existing fixtures and lighting. If you are not going to install new light fixtures, make sure the new cabinets do not create shadows on the counter tops.

Look for interference with cabinet doors when they are opened. If you have a built-in range, will it fit the new opening? What about the exhaust fan - will you have to relocate the exhaust pipe and electrical connections?

Check the cabinet heights. If you are especially tall or short, see how far up you can comfortably reach. Many upper cabinets are designed to have an empty space between the tops and a standard height ceiling, while others will extend all the way to the ceiling.

If one of your cabinets will go over your sink or stove, make sure to allow space underneath it for working, and to attach lighting or a stove hood.

Be sure that upper cabinets line up with lower cabinets, and allow for windows and other features in the wall. Consider how you use your kitchen.

Items Needed for a Professional Job:

• Several carpenter's levels or laser levels of different lengths

• Lots of wood shims for leveling

• Clamps to hold cabinets together while you are arranging.

• Stud finder

• Counter top

• Two 2x4s or a cabinet jack

• Hinges

• Drawer pulls and door handles

• Any sinks, faucets, or other fixtures you will replace at the same time

• Paint and replacement flooring

• Caulk

• Basic power tools such as circular saw, drill, jigsaw, and screw gun

• Screws for hanging cabinets

Empty the old cabinets completely, then remove the doors and shelves before unscrewing the cabinets from the walls. Most shelves simply lift off of pegs, but some need to be unscrewed or pried off their supports.

Make certain that you support the upper cabinets as you remove the mounting screws. If the upper cabinets are a one-piece unit, you may have to separate them to avoid damaging adjacent walls.

After the old cabinets are removed, do any painting and floor work before installation begins. This would be a good time to do plumbing work if needed, assuming the pipes are exposed. See my post on how to sweat solder copper pipe if you need help with this.

Assemble the cabinets, but do not put the doors on yet. Take the time to make sure that the cabinets are assembled as securely, squarely and evenly as you can. Install upper cabinets first if possible, so that you will not need to work over the lower units.

Locate studs with a stud finder and use a level to draw a line down at their locations. Measure from the ceiling to mark the height of the cabinet brace or rail you will fasten to the studs.

Upper cabinets go first, starting at one end or in a corner. Be sure to arrange for a helper to lift and support them during installation. Follow all manufacturer instructions for installation.

Now mark the locations of your studs for the lower cabinets. Move them into place and check which cabinet sits highest. It's easier to shim the others up to this height than to shorten the tall one.

Make cutouts for plumbing, electrical, etc. Be sure these are accurate, and leave a little extra room so cabinets can be moved a little and not interfere with pipes or wiring.

Level the top of the cabinets by shimming under and behind them. Remember that you will install a counter top on the cabinets, so you want this reasonably level and all the joints flush. Also look at the appearance of the cabinet fronts and make sure those are even.